Aerobatic Performance Team

 

About UsUpcoming EventsPicture GalleriesInstructional VideoTeam VideoPro VideoContact Us

Aerobatic TipsSetup TipsForumsOn The RoadQuick LinksDisinformationTrailer Talk

 

Absolutely the Best in Giant Scale Team Performance !

 

ARF Reviews

 

Xtreme Composite

Edge 540

Dietrich 42% Extra 260

Aeroworks 100CC

YAK 54 QB

Hangar 9 P-47 Thunderbolt

Aeroworks 150 CC YAK 54 QB

TOC Extreme 40%Extra 260

Extreme Composite Edge 540T 50CC

 

 

product

Reviews

Smart-Fly PowerExpander14MZ

Smart-Fly

Turbo Regulator

Virtual Cockpit

Lite Pilots

Lite Pilots Babette

Lite Pilots Patsy

Futaba 12MZ Radio

Futaba 14MZ Radio

Futaba 2.4Ghz Fasst System

JR 12X DSM

The Ladies

Justina with The YAK

Justina and Extra 260

Loretta and the BVM Edge 540

Loretta and Aeroworks YAK 54

Justina and the BVM Edge 540

Justina and Aeroworks YAK 54

Justina and Dietrich 42% Extra 260

 

    

ARF Build Review-Xtreme Composite

2.6m Edge 540

Distributed by BVM Props

Review by "Rockin' Rick"

Part 4

 

 

  

  

             

  OK, lets get to mounting the ignition module and the battery for the ignition.  Note that the placement of these components can vary due to balancing requirements.  I've mounted the ignition and the battery on the outside of the fuse temporarily for the purpose of determining the location of the straps that will secure these components. After proper location was established, I moved the battery and ignition module inside the fuse and secured them there. This really needs to be done to ensure proper cooling of the engine with no obstructions of the exit air.   Two pieces of red plastic wire molding were used to cover the spark plug leads to prevent chafing of the wires where they exit the fuse.  Install the mufflers but do not locktite the bolts yet.  Get a piece of card stock and tape it to the fuse just aft of the cowling indentations on the fuse.  Lay the card stock over the mufflers and mark out where the cut outs should be for the muffler penetrations through the cowling. Remove the mufflers and reattach the cowling and transfer your cut out marks to the cowling underside.  Add about an inch more to the length each way for the first initial trial fit from the actual diameter of the mufflers.  Cut out the areas necessary with your rotary tool. I like using the 1/4" sanding drum for this operation.  It may take a few times trial fitting the cowling to establish the final size of cut outs.  When cutting is finished, sand the inside of cut outs with some 200 grit sand paper for a smooth appearance .

               

  When the muffler and exit air cutouts are finished, fit the supplied baffle inside the cowling  and secure it with your epoxy mix.  This is a very important step and should not be omitted.  It is imperative that proper air flow over the cylinder heads be maintained.  When satisfied with the fit of the baffle, reattach the mufflers now using Red locktite on the bolts.

Let's get to the rudder assemblies at this point. Install the rudder servos in the servo tray.  I used Hitec HS 5955TG for my rudder servos.  Fit the tail wheel that you intend to use.  I used the model manufactured by Ohio Superstar for 35% aircraft.  This is trial fit and will be removed and replaced after the rudder is installed.

           

   Place a piece of painters tape over the cut out for rudder control horn on both sides of the rudder.  Cut out the tape from the slot with your hobby knife and apply some Vaseline around the cut out.  This will keep the epoxy off of the rudder when you glue in the control horn.  Apply liberal amount of your epoxy mix to the control horn and inside the slot.  Fit the control horn ensuring equidistant measurements to each side clevis attachment points and proper axial alignment to the rudder hinge pin.  Push the control horn to the front of the rudder slot. This will set the control points slightly ahead of the hinge pin axis and ensure good geometry with the rudder servo extension arm that is slightly  offset. When dried install the rudder using the hinge pin. Bend the hinge pin 90 degrees at the bottom and secure to the rudder using a piece of clear packing tape.  Reinstall the tail wheel at this point. Establish  your cut outs for the rudder control cabling using the dimensions in the above pix. The slot should be 2 3/4" long, 3 1/16 down from the centerline of the horizontal stab, and start at 9 3/4" from the end of the fuse, cutting forward to the canopy. These dimension work with a rectangular cabling set up.  I used this method to ensure proper geometry instead of crossing the cables.  Also, I think it helps to eliminate possible sources of RF interference that sometimes occurs when you cross the cables. 

     

    Attach your cabling using the supplied cable and clevises of your choice. The servo extension arms are a quite bit thinner than I would like, as I prefer to use 4-40 ball links on my connections. I used the supplied arms, clevises, and Air Wild cable connectors at the main rudder servo extension arm. Make sure that your cable cut outs on the fuse are correct and the rudder cabling does not touch the fuselage at any point of travel. Reattach the tail wheel with the springs provided by the manufacturer.

     

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6   

 Sponsors

 

CA

DHC

FTE

GraphTech

AW

 

more coming soon!

 

 

 

 

Home |

 

© 2006 Carolina Sky Dancers