Aerobatic Performance Team
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Absolutely the Best in Giant Scale Team Performance ! |
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ARF Reviews
Extreme Composite Edge 540T 50CC
product Reviews
The Ladies Justina and Dietrich 42% Extra 260
Only use the best in your Bird! Click Here!
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ARF Build Review TOC Extreme 40% Extra 260
Build Review by Rockin' Rick Part 4 Upon inspection of the wheel pants I found that the bottom halves had not been joined very well and were already cracking open at the seams. This is a bit of bad QC on the part of SD Models, TOC Extreme, or whoever is building these planes nowadays. I epoxied a piece of 1/32" lite ply to the inside of both wheel pants clamping them to guarantee adhesion. Using my Dremel tool with the 1/2" sanding drum I opened the slots for the pants to slide over the PSP Titanium axles. I like these axles and used them instead of the manufacturer supplied axles. I now use these on all my models and highly recommend them. No wheel collars are needed with this type. They have not failed yet and the wheels cannot run off due to a collar sliding off the shaft.
Just to give you some idea of when this kit was conceptualized, look at the size of the servo mounting slots. These are cut out to fit the old style Hitec HS-5735/45MG 1/4 scale servos. This is from a bygone era. But the construction of this plane is well worth the money and a little adjusting will fix the problem. I made a new mount for the Hitec HSR-5995TG servos that I'll be using on the rudder. These supply 411 oz/in. of torque each and should be more than ample for my type of flying. I've used the 3" offset servo arm on the rearward servo to work with the Aeroworks style control horns I'll be using on the rudder. Cut out and iron the fabric at the exit slots for the rudder cabling.
Let's carry on with preparations for installing the rudder. I've located that place that I want to install the control horns. Measuring up 1 3/4 " from the bottom of the rudder, I'll center the control horns. I'm not using the supplied control horn assemblies here for reasons that I'll explain later when we get to the wing installations. I had some control horns left over from the Aeroworks YAK's that I've built and decided to use them. When you connect your ball links, add a little blue Locktite to the bolt. Using Blue Painters tape, I mask off the rudder and vertical stab to prevent any epoxy glue from marring the finish when installing the hinges.
Another change I made is to the hinge pin that runs externally the entire length of the rudder axis and two piece hinges. I suppose this is great if you plan to be removing the rudder for transport, but I won't need this option. This forces the hinges to create a large gap between the rudder and the vertical stab. I won't use this long pin in my build and instead uses shorter pins that I'll fabricate myself. These fit the hinges better and eliminate the slop caused by the mismatch of the pin to hinge sizing. I also slotted the hinge cavities a bit to ensure that the hinges fit better and close any gap between the rudder and the stab. Use a generous amount of Vaseline on your hinge points and you'll have no trouble with movement and removing any excess epoxy glue. Use 30 minute epoxy with Micro balloons and Milled Fiber mix for extra strength as the factory cut outs are a bit oversize. When the glue has completely dried install the rudder cables and linkages. I didn't use the manufacturer supplied linkage and instead used Air Wild connectors for the cable attachment with ball links and Aeroworks style control horns.
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