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ARF Build Review

TOC Extreme 40% Extra 260

Build Review by Rockin' Rick

Part 3

 

   

  The inlets for the fuel and smoke tanks were located and installed on the right side of the fuse as far forward as possible.  The leading edge of the wing doesn't leave us much room for this installation.  The tanks are placed inside of the fuse in order to get an idea of where to cut the slots in the flooring for the hold down straps.  With the hold down straps installed tie in the tanks ensuring that you have padded them underneath to help reduce foaming.

   

  This would be a good time to get the cowling halves mated before we install the remaining exhaust system components.  You're kinda' on your own here, but I'll show you how I decide to tackle this one.  The manufacturer supplies some #2 wood screws and 3/8 x 1" plywood blocking to secure the cowling halves together, but I don't particularly care for this type of connection.  I'm going to secure mine with 4-40 bolts and blind nuts using the supplied plywood blocking epoxied to the inside of the cowling.  I find this to be a much more reliable method and won't have to worry about stripping out the screw holes when servicing the engine or screws coming undone during flight due to vibration.  Spacing for the 4-40 bolts was set at 2 5/16" O/C from the back of the cowling forward.  This worked out well, provides six bolting locations per side, and looks great. Don't forget to put a little dab of epoxy on the blind nut backings when you draw them up to inner cowling. I'll use the #4 x 3/8 neoprene washer on the outside with the bolts to hold them in place.  This works better than any lock washer you could use on fiberglass applications.

   

  Here's a step that the manufacturer doesn't even mention in their published manual for the 35% model.  Shame on you.  Proper air flow over the cylinders is a MUST to prevent overheating in this model.  You think I'm kidding?  Try flying in hot climates like in the southeast in the summer and you'll be scratching your head trying to figure out why the engine keeps shutting off. I'm going to install a baffle to ensure that the cylinders get all the airflow that enters the cowling first.  I've drawn a line at 2 3/4" down from the top of the cowling bottom half.  Using some heavyweight card stock, I made a template after much fitting/trial and error.  Ensure that your trial fitting is done with the cowling mounted in place.  This image was traced to a piece of 1/8" balsa stock and then more sanding and trial fitting until it matched the inside of the cowling.  I'll glue it with 30 minute epoxy combining micro balloons and milled fiber in the mix.  Fuel proof the baffle also with a mix of epoxy glue thinned out just a little with alcohol.  If you want a copy of the baffle template, contact me in the "Contact Us" section.  I'll be happy to send you one and save you some time.

   

   Cut out the first opening in the bottom of the fuse just behind the landing gear mount and remove the excess Ultracote.  Leave enough covering to seal the opening after the cut has been made.  Put in your silicone spacers and install the canister support bracket to the 5/16" basswood blocking using #4 x 3/4" screws.  Insert the canisters to check for good fit.   

   

  Now we're going to wrap up the exhaust installation.  Remove the headers and prepare to tap them using a 6x32 tap for the smoke fittings.  The Dubro #241 fittings were used on this model and they really work well.  Add Red locktite to the fitting when installing on the header.  Connect your headers to the canister inlets using your choice of clamps. I like the Irwin style clamps on the headers and the expanding ring type on the canisters.  Secure the smoke oil tubing to the fittings on the headers and route the tubing back to the smoke pump.  Be sure that the two black High temp tubing lines going to the headers from the tee are exactly the same length to ensure equal flow to the headers.  That just about does it, don't it?

 

                                                        

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