Aerobatic Performance Team
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ARF Reviews
Extreme Composite Edge 540T 50CC Dietrich Performance75CC Extra260
product Reviews
Instruction Manuals
The Ladies Justina and Dietrich 42% Extra 260
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Pilot 100CC YAK Fast Build CF Version
Build Review by Rockin' Rick Part 2 Let's get to work on the canister installation. Sad to say it, but I don't believe that Pilot-RC gave this area too much thought and has left it mainly up to the builder to figure out for himself. This is going to take a little time, so be patient. It's my assumption that the use of a set of rear exit canisters were intentioned for this plane, but I happened to have a set of 3W-L70's on hand and decided to use them rather than purchase another set. We all know what the manufacturers charge for these pieces of hollow platinum. For what we pay for the parts, you'd think that was what they are made from. I think it's really a disgusting part of highway robbery in the hobby, and I'm going to do something about it in the near future. With a little modification and patience, this type of canister can be installed. You'll also need a set of 50mm drop flex headers to properly affix the cans to the engine, no matter what kind of canister you use.
First, since the 3W L70's are front exit, we'll need to cut out a portion of the balsa on bottom of the fuse behind the first former. This will provide the exit point for the exhaust pipes. I spaced mine back about 1/2" and made it about 3" wide. The cut outs will extend flush to the first balsa stringer on either side. I cut out the balsa using an exacto knife. Ensure that you leave about 3/8" of UltraCote all the way around to iron back down and close the edges. The rear cut out is already made, so just cut out the UltraCote leaving enough to iron it back down around the edges.
Now, I'm going to make the canister mounting plate. The manufacturer provides two templates but one is for tuned pipes and the other? Who knows? My mount will fit MTW 75's, MTW 110's, and 3W L-70's to the best of my knowledge I have been using the same template made from 1/4" liteply to make the mount for all the above cans in a variety of planes. All that you have to do is figure out what the width of the tunnel is an what height you need and build accordingly. I epoxied the 1 /4 " basswood square stock backings in on both sides of the tunnel at 5 1/2" from the rear of the exit plate. Then, I slid the can mount in and screwed it to the 1/4' backings with #4 x 1/2 flat head screws. This positioning gets you as close to the CG of your cans as is possible due to some interference with the aluminum angle stock already in place in the tunnel for the landing gear reinforcement. The pix below is what is should look like from the rear when you finish.
The headers and canisters are now temporarily installed to ensure that all fits well and there are no obstructions to the air flow. When you are sure that you installation is good, remove the cans and headers and install the CF landing gear. 1/4-20 bolts and locknuts are used in this installation. After the landing gear is securely in place re-install the headers and the canisters.
With the headers and canister temporarily reinstalled, I'll epoxy the front lower motor box stiffener that we set aside in part one. Then, I'll cut out the hole for the throttle servo in the other piece of plywood that we reserved. On the underside rear I'll epoxy a small piece of liteply to provide a more secure mounting for the servo screws. The front side mount for the throttle servo will already be doubled when it is place over the lower motor box stiffener plywood. The hardware kit contains a rod with a 2-56 ball link at one end and I'll solder the other end to a brass 4-40 threaded rod at the proper length to work with a ball link at the throttle servo arm. Silver solder works very well in this type of application. Check the throttle servo for proper function and then permanently install your headers and cans. Use RED locktite on the bolts going into the cylinder heads from the exhaust headers. This is the only place in my installations where I suggest the use of RED locktite. I recommend using blue locktite for all other threaded connections. Man, this is going really good now so let's move on to part 3.
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