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ARF Build Review- Dietrich Performance Aircraft 42% Extra 260 Fast Build
Distributed by Dietrich Performance Aircraft Review by "Rockin' Rick" Part 1-Engine, Headers, Canisters, Throttle
OK, we've got our engine installed on the firewall. Now it's time to figure out the header, canister installation. The headers were temporarily installed to determine where the cans would line up the best going into the fuselage canister cavity. After establishing my marks off of the center for the cans, I looked at the type of mounting that was suggested in the supplied manual, but decided to install my cans using a different method. I built a mount using 1/8" lite ply and epoxied a frame around it made from 1/4 x 3/16 Basswood stock. The frame was made around the mount so that it would act as a spacer to offset the plywood mount from the former inside the canister cavity. This will ensure that the Teflon tubing will be doing it's job positively holding the canisters without binding on the interior former.
Using the ply wood mount as a template, I marked the areas of the former that needed to be trimmed a little bit to provide sufficient room for the canisters. This was done using a small drum sander on my Dremel tool. I installed all the Teflon tubing on the canister mount and then epoxied it to the former using small clamps to ensure and good tight bond. As you can now see, this is a much better and secure mounting for your canisters. Don't know why the builders chose to use such an insecure method in the manual.
While we're working on the canister cavity we might as well cut out the air flow exits for cooling the cans on the belly of the fuse. I decided to beef up the balsa stringers a little bit using some 1/4 x 3/16 Basswood stock and glued to the balsa already in place. The UltraCote was cut over far enough to turn down into the cut out, thus preventing any pulling or tearing of the fabric while in flight. Iron it back down with your sealing iron. I've cut the header on the right cylinder and checked it for proper fit and then cut the header on the left cylinder. We used MTW 90MM drop flex headers in this application obtained from DA and they fit beautifully once trimmed to proper length. Don't make any permanent connections yet, you'll be needing to move some of this stuff around for the next steps in this area.
Well alright, now would be a good time to locate and install the throttle servo. The supplied manual suggests an installation elsewhere, but I'm mounting mine on the motor box. I try to keep it as close to the engine as possible to avoid any pushrod problems down the road. A Hitec HS 5925 was employed for this application due to its incredible speed and power. When I hit that throttle for full power, I want it to respond IMMEDIATELY. Location was determined by the exhaust headers. I also tapped the headers for smoke and put in the fittings with red Locktite. We used the 6-32 size treaded nipples obtained from Troy Built Models, they work great. I want to be injecting the oil just after the exhaust comes out in order to take advantage of the higher temperatures achieved here. When I hit the switch for smoke, I want that column to come out like I'm fogging' for mosquitoes in the Okeefenokee swamp. Yeah, the black tubing might become brittle a lot sooner than expected, but I think that I could afford to replace it when the time comes.
I checked in the manual for suggested cut out for the exhausts of the cans and cut out the cowling as recommended. Also note the grommet for the choke pull has been installed. I used to install my chokes using servo's but have since decided to shed that extra weight and trouble by omitting this component. I guess now it might be nice application to use on a lunker Warbird, but not on an aerobatic plane. . The next pix shows the high temp black rtv applied to the exhaust header gasket, above and below the gasket and the fabricated choke pull. On the choke lever, you'll have to drill your own choke rod mounting hole as DA does not do this at the factory. WHY? Who in the hell knows... it's just one more thing I've got to do Secure both your exhaust headers now to the cylinder head. I like using the black high-temp RTV between the supplied DA header gaskets. Makes for a very good seal on the headers. If you've done your homework right, you'll have enough room to fold the canister exhaust pipes side by side in order to install the cowling later with out any trouble. After the cowling is installed, turn up the exhaust pipes and make your final tightening of the clamps then. I like "Irwin" style clamps on my headers and the spring style on the canisters. The "Irwin" clamps provide a more secure connection to the smooth exhaust headers than the spring clamps. I want to fly the plane when I go to the field, not work on it, and if you use the spring clamps on the smooth exhaust header pipes, you'll be forever fiddling with them to keep them tight.
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